Why Some Aircraft Scale Models Are Harder to Build Than Others

Navigate the challenges and rewards of aircraft modelling with our comprehensive guide

Aircraft scale models represent one of the most rewarding hobbies you'll ever take up, but crikey, some kits can really test ya patience! Whether you're just startin' out with a basic plastic aircraft kit or you've got your eyes on those jaw-dropping models from Hong Kong Models, the difference in difficulty can be massive. So why do some models make you want to tear your hair out while others go together smooth as butter? It's not just about the number of parts—there's heaps more factors at play.

Aircraft Model Building: Difficulty Factors at a Glance
Skill Levels	Beginner (1-2), Intermediate (3-4), Advanced (5) - Each level requires specific techniques and tools
Part Complexity	From simple snap-fit parts to intricate photoetched components requiring special tools
Scale Impact	Smaller scales (1/72) are often easier than larger scales (1/32) which demand higher precision
Brand Differences	Tamiya (excellent fit), Airfix (beginner-friendly), Hong Kong Models (advanced detail)
Painting Challenges	From basic brush painting to advanced airbrushing techniques and weathering effects

Skill Levels and Kit Complexity

Ever picked up a box and wondered what those little numbers on the side actually mean? Aircraft model kits come with skill level ratings that range from Beginner (Level 1–2) all the way to Advanced (Level 5). These aren't just random numbers—they're a crucial guide to the technical demands you'll face during assembly, painting, and detailing.

But here's the thing most manufacturers won't tell ya: these ratings aren't standardised across brands! What Airfix considers Level 2 might be closer to a Level 3 in Italeri's range. That's why understanding what each level actually involves is so important for choosing the right kit.

Skill Level	What to Expect	Tools Required	Recommended Kits
Beginner (Level 1-2)	Limited parts (usually 30-80), snap-fit or simple glue assembly, basic colour schemes, forgiving tolerances	Basic cutters, plastic cement, paintbrushes	Airfix 1/72 Spitfire, Airfix 1/72 Hurricane
Intermediate (Level 3-4)	80-150 parts, precision fitting needed, multi-colour schemes, some small parts	Precision cutters, cement, filler putty, sanding sticks, potentially an airbrush	Tamiya 1/48 P-51D Mustang, Italeri 1/48 Tornado
Advanced (Level 5)	150+ parts, photoetched components, multiple canopy sections, complex internal detail, tight tolerances	All of the above plus specialised tools, photoetch bending tools, airbrush with multiple tips	Hong Kong Models B-17, Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire

The true complexity of a kit isn't just about its skill level, though. Y'know what really separates the easy builds from the hair-pullers? It's the little details that don't make it onto the box—things like mould quality, instruction clarity, and the engineering philosophy behind the kit.

Hidden Factors That Affect Model Difficulty

There's a few sneaky factors that can make a seemingly simple kit turn into a weekend-long nightmare:

1. Kit Age - Some older kits from the 70s and 80s have simpler designs but worse fitting parts. Newer toolings generally fit better but might have more complex assembly steps.

2. Instruction Quality - Clear, colour instructions with exploded views make builds easier. Some brands (Tamiya) are known for excellent instructions, while others might leave you scratching your head.

3. Support Community - Popular kits have more online tutorials and build logs. If you get stuck on a Tamiya F-14, you'll find dozens of guides, but obscure kits might leave you on your own.

4. Material Quality - Some plastic is brittle and prone to breaking, while other brands use softer, more forgiving materials.

A kit's true difficulty isn't just about the part count or even the skill level—it's about the sum of many factors from engineering quality to material selection. When in doubt, check out our full range of aircraft kits where we provide detailed descriptions and difficulty assessments.

Assembly Challenges: Beyond Part Count

Many beginners focus solely on the number of parts in a kit, but that's only half the story. A well-engineered 100-piece kit from Tamiya might go together more easily than a 50-piece kit from a lesser-known manufacturer with poor tolerances.

Scale and Proportional Complexity

The scale of your aircraft model has a massive impact on how hard it'll be to build. It's not just about size—it's about detail density and handling challenges.

Scale	Typical Part Count	Difficulty Factors	Best For
1/144	15-50	Very small parts, limited detail options, challenging for painting fine lines	Space-limited displays, dioramas with multiple aircraft
1/72	30-100	Good balance of size and detail, forgiving for beginners	Beginners, collection builders, limited space hobbyists
1/48	80-150	Excellent detail-to-handling ratio, good aftermarket support	Intermediate builders looking for balance of detail and build difficulty
1/32	150-300+	Extremely detailed, often includes cockpit and engine detail, requires significant space	Experienced modellers focusing on showpiece models

Did ya know that a 1/32 scale Spitfire can have three times as many parts as its 1/72 counterpart? The larger scales don't just scale up the size—they add layers of detail that simply wouldn't be visible in smaller scales. A 1/32 Hong Kong Models Lancaster can include detailed bomb bay interiors, gun turret mechanisms, and even fabric texture on the pilot seats!

Brand-Specific Engineering Tolerances

Different manufacturers have distinct design philosophies that dramatically affect how difficult their kits are to build:

• Tamiya: The gold standard for fit. Parts often click together with such precision you barely need glue. Their 1/48 P-51D Mustang is famous for practically falling together.

• Airfix: Modern toolings are good, but older kits may need extra work. Their new-tool 1/72 Spitfire kits are excellent for beginners.

• Italeri: Detail-oriented but sometimes requiring more sanding and fitting. Their 1/48 Tornado looks fantastic when complete but demands patience during assembly.

• Hong Kong Models: Hyper-detailed kits aimed at experienced modellers. The fit is good, but the complexity and small parts make them challenging.

Construction Sequence Challenges

Some kits require you to think ten steps ahead, and that's where many builders come unstuck. For example, the Hong Kong Models B-17 requires you to:

1. Assemble and paint the interior before closing the fuselage
2. Install clear windows from the inside before they're unreachable
3. Add weight to the nose to prevent tail-sitting
4. Paint sub-assemblies before they're attached

Skip any of these steps, and you're in for a world of pain later! The most difficult kits often involve "box within a box" construction where you build complete interior sections that later get sealed inside the model—with limited access for fixes afterwards.

Painting and Detailing: The Art of Realism

Let's be honest—assembly is only half the battle. Many beginners focus on putting the kit together but underestimate the impact of painting and weathering. A perfectly assembled kit with a poor paint job will never look as good as a decently assembled model with expert finishing.

The Painting Progression Ladder

There's a clear progression in painting difficulty that mirrors the skill levels of the kits themselves:

1. Basic Block Painting - Using brushes to apply main colours in solid blocks
2. Multi-Colour Schemes - Adding camo patterns and detail colours
3. Airbrushing Basics - Smooth basecoats and simple gradients
4. Advanced Masking - Complex camo patterns and sharp demarcation lines
5. Pre-shading and Modulation - Creating depth through lighting effects
6. Weathering Techniques - From simple washes to complex chipping effects

For beginners, simple Airfix 1/72 fighters with single-colour schemes are ideal starting points. A Spitfire in basic RAF green with brush-painted details can look great without advanced techniques.

Intermediate builders might tackle a Tamiya 1/48 P-51D Mustang with its natural metal finish—a challenging but achievable step up that requires careful surface preparation and possibly an airbrush.

Advanced modellers often select subjects specifically for their painting challenges. The Hong Kong Models 1/32 Avro Lancaster with its complex camouflage, weathered surfaces, and multiple markings serves as a canvas for showcasing top-tier painting skills.

Brush Painting vs. Airbrushing

The shift from brush painting to airbrushing represents one of the biggest leaps in model difficulty:

Technique	Best For	Challenges	Equipment Investment
Brush Painting	Beginners, small details, limited budget setups	Brush marks, uneven coverage on large surfaces, slower application	Low ($20-50 for quality brushes and paints)
Basic Airbrushing	Smooth base coats, simple camouflage, intermediate builders	Learning curve, equipment maintenance, setup and cleanup time	Medium ($150-300 for basic setup)
Advanced Airbrushing	Complex camo, weathering effects, natural metal finishes	Requires significant practice, multiple airbrushes for different techniques	High ($300-600+ for professional setup)

Did ya know that some top model painters use up to three different airbrushes during a single build? It's true! They'll use a larger 0.5mm nozzle for base coats, a 0.3mm for camouflage, and a 0.2mm or smaller for fine detail work. This level of specialization isn't necessary for beginners but shows how deep the rabbit hole goes!

Weathering and Surface Effects

The most challenging aspect of aircraft modelling isn't just getting the colours right—it's making them look real. Real aircraft show wear, tear, fading, and grime. Replicating these effects separates showpieces from toy-like models.

Common weathering techniques include:

• Panel Line Washing - Applying thinned dark paint to recessed panel lines
• Dry Brushing - Using a nearly-dry brush to highlight raised details
• Oil Dot Filtering - Creating subtle colour variations across panels
• Chipping - Simulating paint wear on high-traffic areas
• Exhaust Staining - Recreating the effects of engine exhaust
• Dust and Dirt Effects - Adding environmental effects appropriate to the aircraft's service

Advanced models like the Hong Kong Models B-17 practically demand these techniques to look their best. With proper weathering, a B-17 transforms from a grey plastic model to a battle-hardened fortress that tells a story.

Remember that weathering should always be done with restraint—it's easy to go overboard. Study reference photos of actual aircraft to understand how real weathering patterns develop. Our aircraft kits collection includes many models of historically significant aircraft with well-documented service histories to reference.

Photoetched Parts: A Challenge for Experts

Photoetched parts (PE) are one of those things that separate the casual builders from the dedicated craftsmen in aircraft modelling. These razor-thin metal components bring a level of detail that's impossible to achieve with plastic alone, but crikey, they can be finicky little buggers to work with! Most high-end aircraft kits from Hong Kong Models include PE frets that add cockpit details, seat belts, radar antennas, and other minute details that make your model truly shine.

Working with PE parts requires specialised tools that ya won't need for standard plastic kits. These include:

Essential Tools for Photoetched Parts
PE Bending Tool	Creates precise folds and angles in metal parts. Not having one of these is asking for trouble with complex bends.
Fine-Tipped Tweezers	For manipulating tiny parts without launching them into oblivion (we've all been there).
CA Glue (Cyanoacrylate)	Regular plastic cement won't bond metal to plastic. You'll need proper CA glue with different viscosities.
Magnification	A quality magnifier or visor is absolutely essential unless you've got superhuman eyesight.

The complexity of working with PE parts shouldn't be underestimated. Take the Hong Kong Models 1/32 B-17 Flying Fortress as an example. This beast comes with multiple PE frets containing over 200 individual parts! These range from simple flat pieces like instrument panels to complex three-dimensional assemblies like gun turret details. Ya gotta have steady hands and plenty of patience to tackle these parts without sending them flying across the room.

When working with photoetched parts, remember that less is more with CA glue. A tiny drop on the end of a toothpick is usually all you need. Too much, and you'll have a mess that ruins the delicate detail you're trying to preserve.

Masking Challenges: Canopies and Camouflage

Another aspect that can turn a straightforward build into a hair-pulling experience is masking. This is particularly true when dealing with aircraft canopies and complex camouflage patterns. Have you ever tried masking the canopy on a Tamiya 1/48 P-51D Mustang? Those curved surfaces with multiple panels can be absolutely maddening for beginners.

Canopy masking techniques range from using pre-cut masks (the easiest method) to cutting your own from masking tape (the most challenging but flexible approach). Let's break down these methods:

• Pre-cut Mask Sets: Brands like Eduard make aircraft-specific mask sets that save hours of frustration. They're laser-cut for perfect fit and are worth every cent for complex canopies.
• Masking Tape Method: Using thin strips of Tamiya tape applied with a sharp blade and tweezers. This is time-consuming but satisfying when you pull off the masks to reveal crisp, clean lines.
• Liquid Mask: Applied with a brush, this dries to form a removable film. It's brilliant for irregular shapes but can be messy if you're not careful.

Camouflage masking presents its own set of challenges, especially with WWII aircraft that feature complex mottled patterns. The Italeri 1/48 Bf 109G-6 demands precise masking for its distinctive splinter pattern. Many modellers use blu-tack or silly putty as a flexible masking medium for these organic patterns, but getting consistent results takes practice and a good eye.

Dealing with Difficult-to-Reach Areas

Ever tried painting the interior of a bomber kit? It's like trying to butter toast through the letterbox! Aircraft models often have areas that are nearly impossible to reach once assembly progresses, making the order of construction absolutely critical. This is particularly true for large multi-engine aircraft like the Hong Kong Models 1/32 Lancaster.

Difficult Area	Challenge	Solution
Cockpit Interiors	Once the fuselage is closed, you can't fix mistakes or add details.	Complete all interior painting and detailing before closing the fuselage halves.
Wheel Wells	Complex recesses with hydraulic lines and structural details.	Use angled brushes and consider painting before attaching wings to fuselage.
Engine Nacelles	Internal areas become hidden once assembled.	Build and paint in sub-assemblies before final integration.
Gun Bays	Tight spaces with intricate detail.	Use long-handled brushes or cotton buds with extended handles.

The solution to these challenges often involves careful planning and breaking the build into logical sub-assemblies. For instance, with the Tamiya 1/48 F-14 Tomcat, experienced modellers will complete the cockpit as a separate unit, paint it entirely, then integrate it into the fuselage. Same goes for wheel wells, engine nacelles, and weapons bays.

Some builders go as far as leaving certain parts unglued until after painting is complete. This is a bit risky—you might end up with visible seams—but sometimes it's the only way to access those impossible spots. Have you ever thought about using dental mirrors and long cotton buds to reach those nooks and crannies? They're lifesavers for detailing bomber interiors!

Rigging: The Final Boss of Aircraft Modelling

If photoetched parts are challenging, rigging might just drive ya completely bonkers! Rigging refers to the fine wires and cables that were used on biplanes and early aircraft for structural support. Replicating these on scale models is perhaps the ultimate test of a modeller's patience and dexterity.

Imagine trying to stretch dozens of hair-thin wires between the wings of a Airfix 1/72 Sopwith Camel, each one needing to be taut, straight, and properly aligned. Now imagine doing this without accidentally knocking off previously attached wires or getting glue where it doesn't belong. Yeah, it's as maddening as it sounds!

There are several approaches to rigging, each with pros and cons:

1. Stretched Sprue: Heating plastic sprue and stretching it to create thin strands. It's cheap but can be brittle and difficult to tension properly.
2. Fishing Line: More flexible than sprue but can be challenging to glue and doesn't always look to scale.
3. EZ-Line: An elastic thread that can be tensioned after attachment. It's brilliant for beginners but doesn't quite capture the metallic look of real rigging.
4. Photo-etched Rigging: Pre-made metal rigging sets are available for popular biplane kits, offering the most realistic appearance but at a premium price.

The Wingnut Wings 1/32 Fokker D.VII is notorious for its complex rigging requirements. With over 60 individual rigging wires to attach, it's no wonder many modellers consider it a badge of honour to complete this kit successfully. You'll need steady hands, good lighting, and probably a few choice words reserved for particularly frustrating moments!

Decals and Markings: The Final Hurdle

Just when you think you've conquered all the challenges of your aircraft model, there's one final obstacle to overcome: applying the decals. These paper-thin, water-slide transfers can make or break your model, and they're particularly challenging on aircraft with complex liveries.

Modern jets like the Tamiya F/A-18 Hornet come with dozens of stencil decals—tiny warning markings and maintenance instructions that cover the entire airframe. Each one needs to be positioned perfectly, and one slip can ruin hours of careful work. Don't even get me started on the frustration of a decal tearing or folding over on itself!

Aircraft with natural metal finishes present unique decaling challenges. The Italeri 1/48 P-51D Mustang in bare metal requires special techniques to prevent "silvering"—that annoying effect where air gets trapped under the decal and creates a visible film. Have you tried using setting solutions? They're absolute game-changers for getting decals to snuggle down over panel lines and rivets.

For large decals like wing insignias or fuselage bands, consider cutting them into smaller sections. This makes them easier to position and reduces the risk of air bubbles. It's a technique I've used on several Hong Kong Models kits with great success.

There's a reason why many experienced modellers save their best kits for when their skills have developed. The joy of completing a challenging build like a Hong Kong Models 1/32 B-17 is incomparable, but the journey there is paved with simpler kits that help build the necessary skills. Remember, every master modeller started with a basic kit and worked their way up!

Recommended Kits by Difficulty Level

Ready to test your skills? Here's a selection of aircraft model kits arranged by difficulty level. These recommendations are based on the specific challenges we've discussed throughout this article, so you can choose a kit that matches your current abilities while perhaps stretching them just a bit.

Aircraft Models by Difficulty Level
Skill Level	Recommended Kit	Key Challenges
Beginner	Airfix 1/72 Spitfire Mk.Ia	Simple construction, minimal parts, forgiving fit
Early Intermediate	Tamiya 1/48 A6M Zero	More detailed cockpit, excellent fit, manageable painting
Intermediate	Italeri 1/48 F-104 Starfighter	Complex landing gear, natural metal finish, detailed cockpit
Advanced	Tamiya 1/32 F-4 Phantom II	Complex camouflage, numerous decals, weathering challenges
Expert	Hong Kong Models 1/32 B-17G Flying Fortress	Extensive PE parts, complex interior, rigging, 1000+ parts

Whether you're just starting out or you've been building models for years, there's always a new challenge to tackle in the world of aircraft modelling. The satisfaction of completing a difficult kit, overcoming its unique challenges, and displaying the finished result makes all the frustration worthwhile. And remember—it's not just about the destination but the journey. Every mistake is a lesson that improves your skills for the next build.

So what's your next challenge going to be? Are ya ready to step up to that kit you've been eyeing but haven't had the courage to start? Maybe it's time to tackle those photoetched parts or attempt your first biplane with full rigging. Whatever you choose, the modelling community is full of helpful tutorials, forums, and fellow enthusiasts who've faced the same challenges and are happy to share their wisdom.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Aircraft modelling is a journey, not a destination. From those first tentative steps with a simple Airfix Spitfire to the pinnacle achievements of completing a museum-quality Hong Kong Models Lancaster, each kit builds skills that carry forward to the next challenge.

The beauty of this hobby is that there's always something new to learn. Just mastered basic assembly? Try your hand at more complex camouflage. Comfortable with brush painting? Maybe it's time to explore airbrushing. Already got the basics down? Photoetched parts and rigging await to test your mettle.