If you've ever stood in front of the points section at Hearns scratching your head, you're not alone. We get heaps of questions about the difference between Insulfrog, Unifrog, and Electrofrog points – and fair enough too, because it can be pretty confusing when you're starting out.

The thing is, choosing the wrong type of point for your layout can lead to frustrating problems down teh track. Your locos might stall mysteriously, you could get short circuits, or worse – you might spend hours troubleshooting something that could've been avoided with the right choice from the start. That's why understanding these differences matters before you commit to a particular system.

Recently, our resident train expert Kieran sat down to explain exactly what makes each type of Peco point unique. He's been helping customers sort through these options for years, and he's seen pretty much every issue that can crop up. Today we're breaking down his expertise into a guide that'll help you make the right choice for your railway.

Whether you're building your first layout or upgrading an existing one to DCC, understanding how these points work electrically is crucial. It's not just about which one looks right – it's about ensuring reliable operation for years to come. Let's dive into what makes each type tick and which situations they're best suited for.

Understanding the Frog

Before we get into the nitty-gritty of each point type, let's clear up what the "frog" actually is. It's that little triangle-shaped bit in the middle of the point where the two rails cross. When Kieran points it out on the actual track pieces, it becomes obvious – though on some points it blends in so well you might miss it at first glance.

The frog is where your train wheels transition from one rail to another as they pass through the point. It's also where most electrical issues occur, which is why understanding how each type handles electricity through the frog is so important. Think of it as the heart of the point – get this bit wrong and nothing works properly.

In model railway terms, the way the frog conducts (or doesn't conduct) electricity determines whether you've got an Insulfrog, Electrofrog, or Unifrog point. Each approach has its pros and cons, and what works best depends on your specific needs. Are you running tiny shunters with short wheelbases? Planning a DCC conversion? Running long passenger trains? The answers to these questions will guide your choice.

One thing that catches people out is assuming all points work the same way electrically. They don't. And mixing different types without understanding their properties can lead to some real headaches when you're trying to get trains running smoothly around your layout.

Insulfrog Points: The Simple Solution

Insulfrog points are what most modellers start with, and for good reason. They're dead simple to install – just connect them to your track and away you go. The plastic frog in the middle keeps both routes electrically isolated, which means you don't need to worry about complex wiring or short circuits. Perfect for beginners or anyone who wants to keep things straightforward.

The way they work is pretty clever actually. When you switch the point, the moving blades direct power to whichever route you've selected. The route you're not using stays completely dead, which prevents any chance of shorts. This isolation happens automatically through the point's internal wiring – no extra components needed. You can see this clearly when Kieran flips over the point to show the jumper wires underneath.

But here's where Insulfrog points can cause problems: that plastic frog creates a dead spot. On larger radius points like Peco's number 6 or 8, this dead section gets pretty long. Small locos with short wheelbases – we're talking 0-4-0 shunters or some 0-6-0 tanks – can stall right in the middle. One wheel's on live rail, the other's on dead plastic, and your loco just stops.

This isn't usually a problem with modern diesels or longer steam locos. They've got enough wheels spread out that something's always picking up power. But if you're into industrial shunting layouts or love those cute little tank engines, Insulfrog points might give you grief. Many modellers end up adding stay-alive capacitors to their small locos just to get over these dead spots reliably.

Electrofrog Points: Maximum Reliability

Electrofrog points take the opposite approach – the entire frog is metal and powered. This completely eliminates dead spots, making them ideal for short wheelbase locos and ensuring smooth running for everything. No more embarrassing stalls in the middle of a shunting demonstration. The trade-off? They need more careful installation and wiring.

With an Electrofrog, the frog's polarity switches depending on which way the point is set. This means both rails leading away from the frog need to be electrically isolated with insulated rail joiners. Skip this step and you'll get a dead short the moment a metal wheel bridges the gap. Not fun when you've just finished ballasting!

The wiring underneath shows two pre-attached wires for the frog. Out of the box, these are connected to ensure the frog gets power. But for proper DCC operation or complex track arrangements like reverse loops, you'll want to cut these and wire the frog through a polarity switch. This gives you complete control over how the point operates electrically.

Yeah, it's more complex than Insulfrog, but the reliability is worth it. Once properly installed, Electrofrog points just work. Every loco, no matter how small or quirky, glides through without hesitation. For exhibition layouts where reliability is crucial, or if you're running a fleet of small industrial locos, Electrofrog is the way to go. Just budget some extra time for installation and maybe grab some extra wire while you're at it.

Unifrog Points: Best of Both Worlds

Unifrog points are Peco's newest development, and they're pretty clever. Out of the packet, they work like a powered Insulfrog – the rails beyond the frog stay live, but the frog itself is isolated. This means easier installation than Electrofrog but better performance than traditional Insulfrog. It's like Peco listened to years of modeller feedback and created exactly what we asked for.

The magic is in the pre-wired jumpers underneath. These connect the stock rails to the rails beyond the frog, keeping everything powered. But here's the brilliant bit – you can modify them. Cut a couple of wires and suddenly you've got isolated sections for more complex wiring. Add a wire to the frog connection and you've basically got an Electrofrog. One point, multiple personalities.

For most modellers, Unifrog hits the sweet spot. The shorter plastic frog section means even small locos rarely stall, while the simplified wiring keeps installation stress-free. You get that pre-attached frog wire just like Electrofrog, so upgrading to full frog powering later is dead easy. Just hook it up to a point motor with polarity switching and you're golden.

Peco's gradually replacing their range with Unifrog versions. We're seeing more varieties coming through the shop – different angles, radii, even some of the more exotic track configurations. If you're starting a new layout today, Unifrog makes the most sense unless you have very specific requirements. They're forgiving enough for beginners but capable enough for advanced users.

Choosing the Right Point for Your Layout

So which type should you actually buy? Like most things in model railways, it depends on what you're trying to achieve. Let's break it down by common scenarios we see in the shop, because what works for one layout might be completely wrong for another.

If you're building your first layout or want something that just works out of the box, Insulfrog is still a solid choice. They're perfect for starter sets and simple track plans. Running modern diesels or longer steam locos? You'll probably never notice the dead frog. The simplicity is a real advantage when you're learning the ropes.

Got a collection of tiny shunters or planning an industrial layout? Electrofrog all the way. Yes, the installation is more involved, but watching that little 0-4-0 saddle tank chug through points without hesitating is worth every extra minute spent wiring. Exhibition layouts benefit too – nothing kills the atmosphere faster than having to prod a stalled loco in front of an audience.

For everyone else, Unifrog is probably your best bet. They handle most locos well, install reasonably easily, and give you upgrade options later. Building a mid-sized home layout? Planning to maybe go DCC eventually? Want flexibility without complexity? Unifrog ticks all the boxes. Plus, with Peco expanding the range, you're future-proofing your track purchases.

Installation Tips and Wiring

Alright, let's talk installation. Kieran's demo really drives home how important proper wiring is, especially for Electrofrog and modified Unifrog points. The basics aren't complicated once you understand what's happening electrically, but a few tips can save you hours of troubleshooting.

First up, those insulated rail joiners for Electrofrog points – don't skip them! We stock plastic fishplates specifically for this purpose. Install them on both rails leaving the frog. Some modellers think they can get away with just gapping the rails, but temperature changes can close those gaps. Do it properly first time.

Colour coding your wiring makes life so much easier. Red for one rail, black for the other, green for frogs – it's become the unofficial standard. When you're underneath your layout trying to trace a fault, you'll thank yourself for using different colours. We keep proper layout wire in stock in all the standard colours.

For frog polarity switching, the classic solution is Peco's PL-13 accessory switch paired with their PL-10 point motors. The switch changes the frog polarity automatically as the point moves. But any changeover switch will work – some modellers use microswitches triggered by the point's tie bar. Just make sure it's rated for your track voltage.

Here's a pro tip: before final installation, test everything on a piece of scrap board. Wire up the point, connect it to your controller, and run your smallest loco through it repeatedly. Better to find problems on the workbench than after you've ballasted everything in place. Trust me on this one – learned it the hard way!

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with the best planning, points can still cause headaches. Let's run through the most common issues we help customers solve. Knowing what to look for can turn a frustrating evening into a quick fix.

Locos stalling on Insulfrog points is probably the number one complaint. Besides the obvious solution of switching to Electrofrog or Unifrog, there are workarounds. Adding weight to light locos improves electrical pickup. Stay-alive capacitors provide a power reserve to coast through dead spots. Some modellers even add conductive paint to plastic frogs, though that's getting pretty advanced.

Short circuits on Electrofrog points usually mean you've forgotten those insulated joiners or there's a wiring mistake. The classic symptom is everything working fine until a loco hits the point, then your controller trips. Check those rail gaps first. Sometimes ballast glue can create a conductive bridge – scrape it clean with a small screwdriver.

Intermittent operation often traces back to dirty or loose connections. Points take a lot of mechanical stress from passing trains. Check the pivot points, clean the stock rail contact areas, and ensure those blade tips make firm contact. A cotton bud with some track cleaning fluid works wonders.

Points that won't throw properly might need mechanical adjustment. Check for ballast grains jamming the mechanism. The tie bar should move freely without binding. Sometimes the spring in manual points needs tweaking – there's a sweet spot between too loose and too tight. With motorised points, check your wiring and ensure the motor's getting enough power.

DCC Considerations

Digital Command Control adds another layer to point selection. While all three types work with DCC, some make life easier than others. The key difference is how DCC systems react to shorts – they're much quicker to cut power than old DC controllers, which can highlight wiring issues you might've gotten away with before.

Insulfrog points are actually DCC-friendly straight out of the box. No special wiring needed, no short circuit risks. The downside remains those dead frogs, which become more noticeable when you're running sound-equipped locos. Nothing kills the illusion faster than sound cutting out mid-point. But for simple DCC layouts, they work fine.

Electrofrog points need careful attention in DCC systems. Those insulated joiners become absolutely critical – forget them and you'll get an instant short. The frog wiring needs to be bulletproof too. Many DCC users add a surge protector to their point motor circuits for extra protection. It's worth doing the job properly.

Unifrog points hit the sweet spot for DCC. Out of the box, they're safe – no short circuit risk. Want to add frog powering later? The connection's already there waiting. This flexibility makes them ideal for layouts that might start simple but grow more complex over time. Plus, that shorter dead section keeps sound locos happier than traditional Insulfrog.

One often-overlooked aspect is how points affect DCC accessory addressing. If you're using accessory decoders to control points, the type doesn't matter electrically. But if you're relying on route-setting or automation, reliable point operation becomes crucial. Electrofrog and powered Unifrog points, with their better electrical continuity, tend to give more consistent feedback to detection systems.